Baubericht Speedliner Corsair M-510 'Maverick'

[Guest Dirk Jan]

Thank you all

 

I'm also curious about the weight! I will stain the battens and stringers after gluing the hull plates.

The chine battens required some sanding, but overall they fit good!

 

Ulmo, could you help me with the turn fin? I understood you have a drawing for that? The throttle lever drawing would also be very welcome

[Ulmo]

Ulmo, could you help me with the turn fin? I understood you have a drawing for that? The throttle lever drawing would also be very welcome

 

The throttle drawing is already available here http://www.schiffsmodell.net/misc.php?do=showattachments&t=37863

. Regarding the turn fin I can't help until Tuesday. I recently sent it to Jo. Maybe he can forward it to you. The basic dimension ist 40x60 mm.

Edited December 30, 2012 by Ulmo

[Guest Jo_S]

I recently sent it to Jo. Maybe he can forward it to you.

Done!

[Guest Dirk Jan]

Thank you for your quick replies gentlemen I can continue this enjoyable build

[Guest Dirk Jan]

Last update was last year.. time for the next update!

 

The 'framing' of the transom is glued on.

 

 

Next the framing is sanded down to the transom. The tape prevents me to sand the laths down too much. It works very well!

 

 

Next is the plating. I show some pictures of my approach.

 

Unfortunately my plating is only 50cm. long... That means the longest plates have to be made from 2 parts. Nevermind, the hull will be painted anyway

 

 

 

 

If the plating fits well, it can be glued. Press the plating down with some weights, clamps or tape. Or all together like I did

 

 

Then I realized I should have installed the turn fin before putting on the plating...Now I have to do it lateron! I already made the cut with my dremel.

 

The next part of the plating is put under an angle. To give the plate an accurate fit with the middle plate, I use some paper and my finger nail to make the plate contour on the paper. Next I cut the paper, put it on the wood and accurately saw it.

 

 

 

 

 

Gluing the plating is done with 'wood glue'. That's how its called in Dutch anyway! Here I glue the 'third step'.

 

 

 

First part of the hull is plated!

 

 

The other half quiclky follows..

 

 

 

 

The hull is plated and sanded.

 

 

 

 

Time for the sides. Again I have to work with two parts, because of my short plates...

 

 

In order to clamp the sides I had to remove the hull from the building board. A nice moment. Finally the hull is released!

 

 

The turn fin is also done. I made it from aluminium profile. I will install it lateron. Now it's still easy to lay down the hull

 

 

 

 

That's it for now!

[Ulmo]

A very neat and clean craftman's work.

I like the way you are doing the sanding.

 

Regarding the turn fin you could also consider to simply screw it to the keel batten from the outside. The mounting plate could be streamlined (sharpended) to limit water resistance. This way you can try other positions or repair the fin after a collision ... my fin got badly damaged when I hit Xoff's Spitfire at the Agger meeting last year. I have no easy chance for repair.

 

I have a front-row seat to watch your progress

Edited January 7, 2013 by Ulmo

[Guest Lilly_S]

Wow!

[Guest tschakaa]

I like it. Nice, very nice!!! :that:

[xoff]

It's nice to see the progress and your accurate work! :respekt:

[Guest Dirk Jan]

Thank you ladies and gentlemen!

 

Ulmo, the turn fin will be installed on top of the middle lath. This way I can still remove it, just remove the knee board of the pilot. Thanks for your advice!

[Guest Dirk Jan]

I proceeded a little further.

 

The top of the hull is sanded with a big sanding block.

 

 

 

Johnny, ex commando, tries his new boat. This was before his knee operation, so he couln't take the proper position. In the meantime Johnny is operated and he can take the race position on his knees. You need to sacrifice a little in order to race my boats..

 

 

The next parts are ready to saw. They will soon return...

 

 

The steering drum is being made. The inside drum is made from 2 parts of 1mm birch ply. The outside guide drums are made from 0.8mm birch ply.

 

 

The steering wires can be clamped down on top of the steering drum. Inspired by Subdiver(Lex) and Robo

 

 

This is the lipo tray. The lipo is strapped down with hook and loop tape. The lipo tray can be moved 25mm by using the different screw holes in the two bottom bars.

 

 

 

These parts are ready to be stained. The steering drum is stained only on the vertical surfaces.

 

 

Stained and glued. The steering wires just pass the lipo freely.

 

 

 

 

The Corsair on its stand.

 

[egdata]

Top:that:

[Guest Jo_S]

Just beautiful, Dirk Jan!

Wonderful woodworking!